Latitude: 65° north
Weather: -15, ☃️ Sunrise: 10:30 Sunset: 14:30
It was hard to leave the cabin in the woods – ours for such a small slice of time, but so perfect.
We loaded up the rucksacks into the car (luxury!) and Tim drove us expertly back up the slidy, snowy drive and then the 30 minutes back into Tornio, concentrating on the road while I scoured the passing landscapes for moose (spoiler: no moose).
We had time for a quick stop in Tornio to get the all-important morning coffee. Shopping centre coffees are becoming a feature of this trip – reliable, open early, warm. Robert’s Coffee didn’t sound very Finnish but did have good coffee, even better truffles, and a warm and friendly welcome. While Tim waited inside for the coffees, I popped back out into the cold to bag the obligatory border photo – one leg in Sweden, one in Finland. There are definitely worse places to be split in two!
Onwards. Our task today was to follow the coast of the frozen Gulf of Bothnia on around its northern limit and down the eastern side to the city of Oulu. No buses on a Sunday meant a taxi for the first leg of the journey, as far as the town of Kemi. Here we jumped on a train, managing to bag upstairs seats once again. Double decker trains – even more exciting than double decker buses!
The colour palette had changed again. The sky was overcast and heavy with not-yet-fallen snow, bringing new shades of metallic grey. Silver birch – truly silver. The pines, bleached of colour by the light, a dark slate grey. Watching the landscape was like sitting in a spray-painted picture, and very soothing to watch rumble past.
I was ready to find it jarring to arrive into a city after the tranquility of the woods and was braced not to love Oulu. In fact, it captivated me within minutes of arriving. It’s not dissimilar in feel to Luleå (its counterpart on the other side of the Gulf). Handsome, solid buildings, wide streets and a modern waterfront square. Oulu is European Capital of Culture this year and is gearing up for a big year, starting in a couple of weeks. First impressions were of a city which has had care, money and pride poured into it. Beautiful lighting everywhere, from the sparkly decorations of the shopping centre to the quirky illuminated murals on the car park entrances. Cafes and restaurants looked cosy and inviting, candles in windows.
We walked down to the main square, to meet Toripolissi – a small, squat statue of a policeman who seemed thoroughly unexcited to meet us. From here we found the waterfront, The sea once again frozen and covered in a light coating of the whitest snow. Alongside the water, the stunning modern theatre and beautiful, light-filled public library.
We stopped into Makia cafe on the way back – full of warmth and the buzz of conversation on a Sunday evening. Oulu feels like a city for locals – none of the tour groups of the busy Lapland towns, but instead friends meeting for drinks on a weekend evening. The neon sign on the wall summed up the atmosphere perfectly: good vibes only.
Tonight was a ‘cook at home’ night, which is always fun as it means a trip to a supermarket. Why do groceries seem so much more glamorous in a foreign language?! S-Mart was full of enticing looking fruit and veg, and an incredible array of gluten-free options to make me happy. Also – Lindor Balls as pick’n’mix? When can I move here??
Back into Makia for early morning coffee as the city woke around us. Christmas lights reflecting off the windows, gentle music and a tranquil mood this early. It was gently snowing as we started our day – a fresh white dusting on top of the ice-packed roads suggested it had been at it for a while. Silhouetted figures crossed the square on their way to work, and the three others in the cafe are were reading the paper with their early morning coffees. What a lovely place to sit and jot thoughts about this attractive city.
Oulu has been designed to be walkable, cyclable and generally outdoorsy. Shared access foot- and cycle paths snake along the shorelines and over illuminated bridges to the islands in the bay. Signs tell you how many people have passed on foot and by bike – today and this year so far. Lots of cyclists out despite the -15 temperatures. Another city where the lifestyle feels active and designed for quality of life.
We walked in gently falling snow across to Pikisaari, a lovely island of wooden houses and small streets. Beyond the residential roads, we found a cultural hub in a converted mill: a concert and events space, studios, and a brewery with sauna attached. Oulu is full of cultural spaces, from the large, modern theatre right on the waterfront, to the glass-fronted ‘Culture House’ in town, housing free-access galleries, a library and performance spaces. we enjoyed a quick visit to the vibrant artworks of Hannula & Raudaskoski, a Finnish artist couple who co-create brings, energetic works together.
There are also strong musical roots in Oulu – it has its own professional symphony orchestra, a thriving calendar of gigs, a music trail around the city – and is home to the annual World Air Guitar Championships. A music scene that’s quirky, fun, and vibrant – like the city itself.
We followed the shoreline footpath, boots crunching the snow, the route idyllically lit by real candles in lanterns (who lights them? How does this happen??), and crossed more bridges to take us on a circuit back past the remains of Oulu castle and through to the marketplace. In the middle of the square, a temporary winter sauna, a 24/7 pizza vending machine and a karaoke bar (so much karaoke here). Who wouldn’t want to live in a city that provides all of this by the sea?
There’s a lot more to explore in this lovely little Finnish city. Vibrant, alive, a city that feels proud of itself and what it has to offer both locals and visitors.
I’m writing this on our next train, heading south into Finnish Lakeland. Finnish trains are a joy. Double decker, with comfy chairs, free WiFi, and separate little rooms with doors which you can use to take a phone call away from everyone else. It’s peaceful in our compartment, and I’m listening to the music of Madetoja (a native of Oulu) as I watch the forest pass by.
The snow is heavier now as we head inland – there’s more white than grey in the views, and the pine trees hang heavy with snow, thick like icing. As the light starts to fade from the day, the silver birch begin to fade into the silver sky – like watching a whisper of a dream of Finland as we glide gently through this beautiful land.
